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Fluoro's, CFL's e.t.c

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Bowen View Drop Down
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  Quote Bowen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Fluoro's, CFL's e.t.c
    Posted: 20 June 2006 at 16:57
Just decided that I am going to have to get myself a few of these but i'm not sure which kind I should get.
 
500 watts would be ideal or a combo to make up 500. Do any of you guys use any of these lamps?
 
I'm thinking of a four bulb reflector with 4 blue lamps in for the veg stage and 4 red lamps for the flowering, or would I be better with a 250Watt HPS for flowering, im not too sure on the outputs?
 
Or if anyone has a more efficient lamp setup could they throw me a few tips on these fluoro's?
 
BowenThumbs Up
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leelikos View Drop Down
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  Quote leelikos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2006 at 20:50
Hey Bowen, hows it going?
 
I've been using standard fluoros up top (a tad over 40wpsf, white/blue spectrum) and a few of the CFL(25-50watts each)with small mylar reflector hanging mid to bottom of the plants to get some strong side shoots coming through for cuttings.  I've been doing this for about a year and a half with a hand full of strains.  I veg the plants to about 11/2feet  (anything more with fuoros and stretching 's gonna occur) and them put them under a 400watt hps.  Depending on the cash situation try and get the cool tube as well, because if set up right with cool air coming through you can get that bit closer to the plants and it really does make a difference.  I got mine from alien growshop and it's the mutts nutts for growing a few underneath it.
 
I'm no expert but this setup has never failed me.  They veg wonderfully healthy with fairly short internode spacing.  The hps gives pretty tight bud formations and with something like Misty from Nirvana they can get pretty big (though I've never seen buds with a 600/1000 watter......I'd really like to though! and I'm no conessieur when it comes to different strains)
 
Hope all that was of some help.
 
Oh and a mate of mine uses a 250w hps and he says it's a bit crappy though it does the job.
 
Lee
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Grasso View Drop Down
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  Quote Grasso Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2006 at 21:49
Hello,

full-spectrum metal-halide lamp technique beats every other lamp technique by a great margin. The 4300 °K version is an all-purpose lamp.

Now to the second best lamps! There are many different types of fluorescent lamps. Spectrum plots can be found at www.narva-bel.de/katalog/ti_spek.html

* Truelight, Philips Deluxe and 927 to 960 output reasonably much light with acceptable spectra and have a long life-span.

* Old-school types 010 to 030, 076 and 077 have good spectra. Light intensity diminishes rather fast with on-time, hence replacement should occur every year or two. Modern electronic ballasts raise lifespan.

* 827 to 860 output the most light energy for the longest on-time but have inacceptable spectra. Most "warm white" CFLs are of 8xx type or with similarily discontinuous, peaky spectrum. Pure mercury and outdated MH lamps are also similar.

* Incandescents output continuous light. 1 watt of tungsten light mixed with 3 watts of gas discharge light will iron out the red end of the spectrum and prove as very efficient. If you are still in doubt: Bread consists mostly of flour but does not taste at all without yeast and salt.

Using a stack of fluoro tubes, spectrum and intensity can be adjusted very well. However the argument of the white spring and red autumn sun is overdrawn, in order to sanctify historically technical necessities. People contradict themselves when the ramble further on equatorial sativas. The sun shines orange only for a minute each at dawn and dusk. Stick to 4300 °K!

Uli

    
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Sticky View Drop Down
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  Quote Sticky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 June 2006 at 02:36
go the 250 w HPS Bowen, or as lilikos saide a 400 is even better

You know about SON T AGRO aswell.

Good to see you have brushed up on your knowledge of Indoor lights Uli

Stickyhigh
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kidsreturn View Drop Down
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  Quote kidsreturn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 June 2006 at 04:50
Originally posted by Grasso


* 827 to 860 output the most light energy for the longest on-time but have inacceptable spectra. Most "warm white" CFLs are of 8xx type or with similarily discontinuous, peaky spectrum. Pure mercury and outdated MH lamps are also similar.


About the the PL-L serie* - wich i know for using it: 830's spectra 3000k and 840s spectra is 4000k (i use the 55W version of both). By here they are often sold in this mixed spectrum, totalling 11000 lums for 110W, wich is not that far from MH and HPS watt to lum efficiency.

I'm not 100% sure yet, but i think that my plants veg better (less stretchy) under those 110W CFL than under my 400W HPS (wich is not blue enhanced). I would buy them again.


* http://www.servicelighting.com/library/philips_pl-l_compact_fluorescent_light_bulbs_from_service_lighting.cfm


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Sticky View Drop Down
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  Quote Sticky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 June 2006 at 08:07
Hi guys

I have only ever used fluros to root cuttings or bring up seeds.

Fluros just dont give of the high intensity discharge My girls enjoy.

But thanks for the latest news in FLURO, I have enjoyed everyones posts and feel more Educated on fluro now

For what its worth i use 2 Power glo 40w and a Aqua glow between the two, That lights up a 1meter by 2 foot Area for my clones 120 w inclusive, Can it be better, It seems to work Really well with a 100 percent strike rate

Any advice would be great

Stickysmoking
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Grasso View Drop Down
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  Quote Grasso Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 June 2006 at 20:01
Hello,

a mix of "outdated" fluoros (by the way: 754 is the same spectrum as 010) and "ridiculously outdated" tungstens and possibly a grain of UV has the most natural spectrum of all artificial lights one can find for effort and money, sharing the gold medal with full-spectrum MH lamps.

Sticky, your fluoros have colour temperatures above 10.000 °K. Your mothers should grow very short internodes. But if it works for you and affects the world it is o.k..

Uli
    
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Sticky View Drop Down
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  Quote Sticky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2006 at 03:50
Ok" Thanks

Not shore that i understand your first Statement ?

Short internodes, Is what iam about? I never flower a plant indoor bigger than 2 feet

Which is why i Mostly grow indica Strains, The mothers that the internodes have stretched on over time tend to grow Taller plants and arent as nice to clone of, Being that they have stretched and the internodes are further apart which makes my cuttings large because of  My Habit to only take cuttings thrue an internode sight

I have a mate who keeps his whole strain library under Fluros, I preffer to keep them Under MH Vegging them up and cutting them back for new stock every month

Sticky

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Bowen View Drop Down
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  Quote Bowen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2006 at 15:20
This is a great post I never expected so much interest, just wondering now if the power consumption of the MH is tolerable, i'm guessing that they should be ok, however I need a high output light system that consumes as little power as possible.
 
Any Ideas?
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kidsreturn View Drop Down
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  Quote kidsreturn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2006 at 18:23
The power consumption of MH bulbs should always be (relatively speaking) smaller given they have a better watt>lum efficiency. CFL bulbs emit more total heat than MH ones due to a lower watt>lum efficiency, wich means more watt>heat.
However in small areas CFL can prove an ok alternative, and heat wise its a safe bet: their direct radiated heat is lowered by the large size of the bulbs (less heat but over a larger area).   Now, i didn't really think of the implications of color rendition quality until an earlier post in this thread.
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